Lens finishing

Lens Finishing Equipment

Drilling, grooving, bevelling, polishing and blocking machines: the bench equipment that turns an edged lens into a finished pair of glasses.

Six bench machines, one for each finishing step. Every figure is a published specification; anything not listed is confirmed on your quotation.

Models6
FramesFull-rim · semi-rimless · rimless
Power3–80 W bench machines
PricesQuoted per configuration
The range

Six finishing machines

One machine for each step after the edger, plus the blocker that comes before it.

By frame type

Which machine for which frame

The frame decides the edge. Pick the row that matches the frames you sell most.

FrameEdge it needsMachines
Full-rimBevel (V) edge, sized to the eyewireCP-5DT to block · edger · LY-11ATW for thick edges · CP-8B to polish (optional)
Semi-rimless (nylon cord)Flat edge with a 0.6 mm grooveCP-5DT · edger · CP-3-800 to groove · CP-8B to polish
Rimless (drill mount)Flat polished edge, holes or notchesCP-5DT · edger · CP-24A or CP-2A to drill · CP-8B to polish
Bench order

The finishing sequence

01

Verify and block

Check the lens in the lensmeter, mark the optical center, then center and block it on the CP-5DT.

02

Edge, then groove or bevel

Edge to shape. Groove semi-rimless lenses on the CP-3-800; bevel thick full-rim edges on the LY-11ATW.

03

Drill, polish, mount

Drill rimless lenses on the CP-24A, polish exposed edges on the CP-8B, then mount and inspect.

Background

Getting finishing right

Rimless drill mounts

Trivex is the first choice for drill mounts and polycarbonate the second, because they resist cracking at the holes. Chamfer each hole on both sides, fit bushings so metal never presses on the lens, and keep acetone and thread-lock away from the mount.

Semi-rimless grooves

Nylon cord is typically 0.5–0.7 mm thick. A groove about 0.6 mm wide with roughly 0.9 mm of wall on each side, on an edge about 2.2–2.5 mm thick, holds well without chipping. On thick minus lenses, move the groove toward the front.

Thick full-rim lenses

Bevelling and polishing the back edge makes a strong minus lens look thinner in the frame. Move the bevel apex back a little so less edge shows behind the frame, then polish the edge clear.

Polishing

  • Polish exposed edges: rimless, semi-rimless and thick high-minus lenses.
  • Keep polishing compound off coated surfaces.
  • Polish polycarbonate edges before fitting metal frames to help prevent cracks.

Background sources: Eight tips for processing rimless or semi-rimless eyewear (Eyecare Business) · A simpler view of rimless eyewear (Review of Ophthalmology) · Lens makeover (20/20 Magazine)

Questions

Lens finishing questions

What do I need for rimless frames?

A drill (CP-2A) or a drilling and slotting machine (CP-24A), plus a polisher for the flat edge and rimless pliers for mounting.

What do I need for semi-rimless frames?

A groover such as the CP-3-800, nylon cord in the right thickness, and ideally a polisher for the exposed edge.

Is edge polishing necessary?

Not on every lens. Polish exposed edges and thick high-minus edges; on full-rim frames it is optional.

Why block a lens at all?

The block fixes the lens at the right decentration and axis so the edger cuts the shape in the right place. An error of 1 mm on a 4 D lens creates 0.4 prism diopters.

Fitting out a finishing bench?Tell us which frame types you sell and how many jobs you finish a day. We suggest the machines and quote them as one order.
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